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Wednesday, May 12, 2021

No Rational Dress Allowed


This post is about the entertaining and sometimes bizarre history of the late Victorian and Edwardian Marlow men and women who took to up the cycling craze. It was a time when the cost of bicycles had come down and the comfort had increased thanks to the Safety bicycle with two equal size wheels. It gave new freedoms to the lucky woman able to buy or hire a cycle and must have made travel much easier for many working people. In 1910 even the parish surveyor got an allowance for the maintenance of his bike.


Join the Club

The Bicycle Touring Club (known as the Cyclists Touring Club after 1883) had a local headquarters in the George and Dragon. This was a national organisation that sometimes lead organised group rides as well as producing a magazine and route maps. Touring members could get advice on local roads from the representative, and they got preferential rates when staying at a HQ.  It's members wore a uniform, so they would be hard to miss on their jaunts. But they were not the only cycling club in town. 


Above, an example of an early Edwardian cycling map. One was also produced for Bucks.


In 1895, the Marlow Cycling club came into existence. They would be open not just to those intending to travel on two wheels but tricyclists as well. Tricycles were not so much a novelty in adult use as they seem to us.  Praised for their comfort and safety, they were the subject of a strong trend of their own. 


The first meeting was held in the new Coffee Room of the Chequers. There were important issues to discuss. Would women be allowed to join? Yes. Would these women be allowed to wear Rational Dress on club runs? Definitely not. What the Victorians called Rational Dress, we might call "practical" options. This meant bloomers/pantaloons or culottes for the women - "divided skirts". These were regarded as unfeminine, lacking in grace, and / or immoral by some. The alternative was to wear a skirt. Some woman had special cycling skirts with the hems stiffened with horse hair so as to lessen the risk of material catching in the mechanism of the bike or the pedals before that. Those who supported Rational Dress suggested that the slightly billowing nature of skirts loose enough to allow a woman to mount the bike in the first place could become unintentionally revealing as it floated outwards as the lady pedalled. There was also the argument that dispensing with skirts allowed women to use a wider range of bicycle frame types. But these arguments did not fly in Marlow as far as the Cycle Club was concerned. More on cycle outfits below. 


What everyone in the club would wear was a sort of uniform. No self respecting Victorian cycle club could be without one. Club colours were navy and gold and there would also eventually be a club badge in the form of a shield with scroll (from 1899). Subscription fees were set at 2s 6d a year, with membership open to those over 17. Their regular headquarters were to be at Timberlake's Cycle Depot in the High Street, from where trips would begin. 


Their first club run was to Henley on a fine May evening in 1895. In all 36 members went, led by Club Captain Ilsley and Sub Captain Miss Nellie Creswell. They arrived at the Catherine Wheel and spent time punting and boating, before returning home at 8 with gas cycle lamps lit. They dismounted at Timberlake's and congratulated each other on a successful trip with no punctures to contend with. 


And so they continued organising "gallant spins" to various local spots such as Beaconsfield and Windsor, with something like 30-40 men and women taking part each time on average. The Club also organised social events, even for a while an annual ball in the Crown. Then there was the "At Home" social gatherings in the large club room of Sycamore House, West Street, which was ran as a sort of private lodging house by Jacob and Hannah Ransome.  But after a while membership declined, and in 1902 the question arose as to whether to continue the club as few people attended on a regular basis but the existing members voted for yes. Their headquarters were now in Chapel Street. 


Mine's a "Marlow" model

There was a lot of places in Marlow which were eager to sell you a bicycle (or tricycle). Many of them started out in other guises but expanded into offering cycling "machines" and accessories. Many were actually manufacturing the bikes themselves either on the premises or elsewhere in the town. A lot also expanded into offering motor cycles. I'll mention a few. 


First up is Mr. W H Carter of Market Square who would offer to hire you a bicycle by the day, week, month or season. He also sold them, and now that cycling was ever expanding in popularity, he could be sure of offering a good supply of second hand machines as well. Repairs and replating would be done "at the lowest prices compatible with good workmanship." [1893]


Mr Barnard was advertising his Chapel Street shop as "the Cycle stores" in 1897. He offered lessons - ladies a speciality - with the assurance of his personal attention. He said he had taught many of the neighbourhoods distinguished residents to ride, and would come to you if the thought of taking your first steps in public was too off-putting. (Biography of Barnard available here)


Alternatively you could go to see cycle agent [Horace] Matthews in Station Road (where Hunts is now). A carriage builder as well, he was now specialising in bicycles. He had the distinction of being the official repairer for the Cyclists Touring Club and of course also offered lessons. In 1904 they claimed to be the cheapest shop in Marlow for cycle accessories. Bells would cost you 9d each and acetylene gas lamp 2s 9d. But they did not just offer cheap. They were the Marlow agents for the Coventry Cross Cycles "recognised by experts to be the best in the world."


Timberlake's Cycle depot was mentioned above. Their slogan was "first class goods at popular prices." Thomas Timberlake was a Maidenhead man and life long cycle enthusiast. In his premises in the High Street (no 18 & 19 in old numbering), you could see not only the very latest designs in bicycles but also one or two ancient models that Mr Timberlake himself had used as a young man. One, built in Marlow by Eustace O Jackson, had a 36" front wheel and rear of 24" both with puncture-less tyres made of steel. Next to this you could see the up to the minute 1899 Timberlake Roadster. If your existing bike was looking worse for wear then Timberlake said he could rebuild it for you so it would look as good as new, for 25s including enamelling and nickel plating. Timberlake also specialised in phonographs, a not uncommon pairing with cycles! 


If you wanted the "Marlow" bicycle, it was to C J Bateman "Cycle Expert" in West Street that you needed to go. It would cost you from £4 in 1904 with a 5 year guarantee and was built in the town. By 1910 the bikes were fitted with Thames Tyres, guaranteed for 15 months.  He could offer other machines built to order from £6 10s and up or ones from stock could be bought from £3 15s. [Prices from 1904-1908. Models included Centaur, Hudson, Premier, Swift, and Unity] Part exchange was also available although you may not get a high price for the boneshaker at the back of the shed. 


George Hitchings of West Street (opposite Quoiting Square) distinguished himself in 1909 as a "practical cycle maker" which sounds much better than an impractical one! He, like Timberlake, also repaired phonographs, and gramophones as well as prams and mail carts. A second hand bike from Hitchings cost 30s and up in 1909. 


Jasper Collins, of the late Victorian bicycle warehouse in Chapel Street claimed his "Star" bicycles were like thoroughbreds with a graceful appearance and easy running. Jasper would also hire you a bicycle and offered bike riding lessons - ladies a speciality. He said he had the largest selection of models in this district. 


You could also buy or hire a bike from Batting and Sons or from Henry Harris saddle and harness maker of Spittal Street amongst others. 


Don't forget your woolies

Above I mentioned the Marlow Cycling Club uniform and their rational dress policy. I have not found any Marlow shops advertising ready made ladies cycling costumes that might have appealed to those not subject to the club rules but of course many ladies would have expected to buy material and make the items up themselves, or have someone else do it for them. One item that you could buy here was the Platinum Anti Corset, available from George Hide in West Street. It was the only type of corset to be considered for athletic pursuits according to George. Morgan and Sons could offer you cycling gloves and W B Langston's had cycling shoes available. These had soles which apparently allowed for more efficient pedalling. 

General outfit advice for would be cyclists stressed the importance of avoiding chills and suggested woollen underwear was by far the safest choice. Mr Jaeger's brand was perfect, and available from Morgans. 

If on the other hand, engaging in outdoor sport had left you dealing with sunburn or gasp, freckles, then High Street chemist William Baxter would recommend a  tube of his exclusive Burnolia ointment. At 6d a time it will cool and soothe your skin. Others recommended rubbing soap into the inside of your socks to avoid blisters on long runs. 


Overall, your cycling outfit should avoid anything "loud or conspicuous" - perhaps not so easy for some cycling club members. Instead it should be characterised by "the quietness that always characterises the dress of a gentleman."



Cycle gymkhanas and the rest

If taking a conventional spin was starting to bore our Marlow ancestors, there was plenty of other cycle based entertainment on offer. Perhaps they would like to take part in the annual cycle gymkhana. (Later called a Cycle Fete.) It occurred over several years as part of "Marlow Week" or "Fete week", a series of entertainments that finished with Marlow Regatta. The gymkhana was organised by the Marlow Cycle Club, and was intended to show off their proficiency. The 1897 show attracted some 300 entries over two days!  It occurred alongside the Fete Week horticultural show, in Alder Meadow (where Marlow Cricket Club is and adjoining field). So what sort of events does a Cycle Gymkhana consist off? 


There was a ladies only mounted egg and spoon race, a tortoise race (slowest rider wins, much harder than it sounds!) and obstacle races. The latter involved weaving in and out of poles stuck in the ground, and pedaling along a plank or two raised off the ground. The gentleman's races involved more weaving between markers as fast as possible. All of this was to the accompaniment of suitable music. There was also a tilting at a ring competition but no cycle jousting as far as I can see! Prizes tend to go to Cycle Club members - Nellie Creswell being the lady to beat in woman's events, and a fair few of the mixed ones. The number of entries some years would suggest the event was open to non members too, with the exception of the first which was more of an exhibition. The gymkhana continued until just before the First World War. 


If gymkhanas did not appeal, there was a bicycle polo team active around 1900 -1912, with S.J Smith as the Captain. Exhibition matches took place as part of the Cycling Gymkhana as well. And in 1903 a bicycle paper chase was held. This started on Marlow bridge with 4 human "hares" setting off down Pound Lane, ahead of the "hunters" and dropping a paper trail as they went. It was presumably not too windy as the "hares" were  successfully tracked across Alder Meadow up to Red Pits hill taking in 4 styles on the way, round by Danesfield and down by Medmenham Ferry. They crossed the Thames using the ferry boat, and finally finished at the East Arms Hotel in Hurley where 30 weary cyclists sat down to tea. Let's hope they all had the more modern bikes for this cross country route. 


Cycling problems

The Cyclists did not have uninterrupted pleasure on the roads. They could attract the ire of other road users when travelling en masse, snazzy Club uniforms not withstanding. Some came to the attention of police for not abiding by lighting up time regulations in 1897. Then there was the issue of poor quality road surfaces. In 1904 Mrs Hall of Bridge House went out for a ride with her husband, the former riding in the lead. While pedalling through Bisham, she considered the road to be in so poor a condition that she decided to retreat to the footpath to continue. An off duty constable saw this and called out for her to stop and give her name and address. She claimed she did not hear him, and on seeing a man jogging along after her and then attempting to bring her to a stop by grabbing at her bike, she pedalled faster. Her husband heard a commotion and turned back. At this point they understood their pursuer was indeed a policeman and surrendered their details. The magistrates remonstrated with the Constable for not clearly identifying himself earlier and risking an accident by trying to seize the ladies bike. So Mrs Hall escaped with a nominal 6d fine and a warning not to trespass again on the footpath. 


Things did not always run smoothly for the cycle sellers either. In 1914, Vincent Aubrey Herbert Timberlake, had gone bankrupt a year after taking over his father's cycle store in Marlow. He had previously managed it for the family who also had a branch in Queen Street, Maidenhead. Vincent's problem was they had got stuck with a stock of older, more expensive machines that no one wanted any longer. And they could not afford to buy or make the more desirable modern models until they had got rid of this old stock. The trend for cheaper models was good for cyclists but the Timberlakes were paying the price for changing fashion. 


One last problem to consider was how much cycling was considered safe, especially for females. While it was generally considered good exercise, within moderation, there were some dangers to avoid other than chills. The Victorian era Idler Magazine, co edited by Jerome K Jerome, offered some advice to female cyclists in 1895. The writer supported rational dress and agreed on the necessity of chill preventing underwear. He added that over fatigue combined with a timid cycling style had been known to cause severe cases of nervous prostration, sometimes long term in nature. You have been warned cyclists! 




Two 1905 ads.


For a post about Victorian/Edwardian gymnastics in Marlow see here 



Sources

Cyclists Touring Club Monthly Gazette, November 1895, Vol 13-14, (Cyclists Touring Club). 

The Idler Magazine, Volume 8, 1895, (Chatto & Windus)

Pemberton, Max 1895, The Season of The Lady Cyclist, as published in The Album July 29 1895. (Ingram Brothers, 1895)

Grace, William G. Outdoor games and recreation: An Encyclopaedia for Boys (Religious Tract Society 1892) 

Post Office Directory 1883, 1891, (Kelly's Directories Ltd.)

The Marlow Guide, 1905. 

South Bucks Standard 24 March 1893,12 May 1895, 21 August 1896,  21 May, 13 August, 9 & 16 September 1897, 19 May, 2 June, 14 July 1899, 12 & 19 January, 08 June, 28 September 1900, 18 April 1902, 7 April 1903, 15 January, 22 April 1904, 2 November 1906, 21 February, 27 March 1908, 25 June, 23 &30 July 1909,10 January 1910 - copies from the British Library Archive and accessed via the BNA September 2020. 

Maidenhead Advertiser 25th July 1910, as above. 

Bucks Herald July 18 1914, as above


For more on the history of the touring club see:

https://www.cyclinguk.org/about/history/ctc-history-timeline 

And cycle outfits:

https://www.cyclemuseum.org.uk/Cycle-Clothing.aspx


©Marlow Ancestors.








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