The Switzerland Of England - Spring Celebrations

In May 1849 the Crown (Crown Hotel / Upper Crown) in Marlow hosted a special Easter Ball. It wasn't the first but was one of the last held for that occasion. The room was decorated with a profusion of flowers, and the ladies attending also wore seasonal blooms. An appreciation of the natural beauty of the spring season is a recurring theme. 

The Switzerland of England

The blooming of the wild primroses was enthusiastically welcomed. The Winchbottom Lane area was one abundant in these pretty flowers and some families made it an annual springtime tradition to picnic there to enjoy them. In town, Holy Trinity Church yard was famously carpeted with flowers. 

The most popular outing was however to the sumptuous cherry orchards of Cookham Dean, which the South Bucks Standard thought was "rightly described as the Switzerland of England in all it's spring tide glory". (1906) It's hard for us to visualise the number of trees, and how resplendent the blossom would have been. But people travelled from all around the region to visit the trees, even coming from London to do so. 

Easter finery

Easter saw the churches decorated, traditionally with predominantly white flowers such as arum lillies. The gardeners at the "big houses" prided themselves in producing a selection of forced flowers for the ladies of the congregation to work their wonders with. Wildflowers were also gathered. At All Saints the font, screen, alter and pulpit were smothered in greenery, and Holy Trinity and St Peters had their own floral displays. The latter was also the scene of Canon Bernard Smith's annual famous donkey ride into the church interior - you can read more about this, and Bernard in a dedicated post here

Easter was also the time of the vestry meeting to choose new churchwardens. And Saturday of Easter week was the deadline for hopeful candidates for entry into the Blue Coat School (Borlase) to have got a "ticket" of application signed by the treasurer and committee members - boys only at this time.

The Primitive Methodist Chapel (now Liston Hall) usually had a Good Friday public tea in the Sunday school room followed by an entertainment with singing and music. The chapel choir provided the former and the chapel's piano and famous harmonium the latter. In 1900 the celebrations included a parade lead by the chapel band. All the proceeds went to the chapel building fund, a very long standing debt the Primitive Methodists suffered under. 

The Salvation Army had outdoor services, and marches including a "monster" (contemporary description) Easter parade in 1895. Other sounds of Easter came courtesy of the Marlow Town band who are mentioned as performing across town at Easter 1884 and the "usual" Easter morning peal of bells from All Saints. 

You could buy hot cross buns from the towns bakers such as West Streets Death and Sons who thought they had the very best in town. Deaths sounds a tasty place to visit in any season with mince pies another speciality. 

Football fun

The Easter Bank Holiday Monday was a traditional time for a football match, with Marlow playing at Crown Meadow, and the more minor teams  fitting in where they could (such as a meadow by the station and Gossmore). In 1896, Marlow saw the final of the Berks and Bucks Cup between Maidenhead and Wolverton on Easter Monday. The roads into town were said to be bustling with supporters making their way into town by horse, bicycle and on foot. Just under 3,500 fans were in attendance, and the club were delighted to collect more than £100 in gate money. 

A match of a different kind was played at Crown Meadow at Easter 1897 before a crowd of 500. A High Street v Rest of Marlow football match with all players playing in fancy dress. At least 3 of the men were dressed as ladies!* Not quite the image we sometimes have of staid Victorians! F W Burton captained the High Street and Geoffrey Hide the rest of Marlow.  The High Street lost 5-3. Costumes included cowboys, butchers, crusaders, and a Turkish soldier.  Funds raised were for the cottage hospital. 

Outside of football supporters, Easter saw a huge influx of visitors, especially by train. In good weather the numbers were reported to be sometimes large enough to cause lengthy delays on the railway because of the extra time taken to get everyone on and off the trains. Great Western Railway offered special cheap third class excursion tickets to Marlow from Paddington over Easter, with services running on Easter Sunday as well. In May 1890, all the hotels, inns and lodging houses in Marlow were said to be full, leading to many people heading back to Bourne End to try and find a room there. The main hotels and inns decorated themselves with flags and bunting to add to the holiday atmosphere - the Fishermen's Retreat, Compleat Angler, Crown Hotel, Greyhound, Two Brewers and the George and Dragon were all mentioned as joining in in 1884. 

May Day Celebrations

We immediately think of May poles when we think of May Day. But the "old tradition" of carrying flower garlands about town seems more long lasting in Marlow. This was the spring equivalent of "penny for the guy" of Guy Fawkes day. By the Victorian era, these garlands were made by children and then paraded around the streets in the hope the charmed adults would recognise the children's efforts with a treat or coin or two. In 1886, the May Garland tradition was mentioned as a lingering tradition in Marlow that had faded more rapidly elsewhere. But the traditional pagan figure of Jack In The Green had not put in an appearance for several years. Canny children knew that visiting Highfields, off Henley Rd, home to Mr Borgnis was essential. He was an enthusiastic supporters of the tradition and it was said no child ever went away empty handed from his property. He certainly had an open purse because several hundred children were said to make a stop at his home. Mr Borgnis chose May Day as the date of his annual "levee" or entertainment for friends, and no doubt the arrival of the flower carrying children provided a pleasant addition to the day. 

The most startling mention of a May Pole is from 1842, when 3 May poles were erected, but not for use by dancers. Instead a figure representing an unnamed person was hung from each then set alight.  (It was believed to represent a politician and/or those responsible for encouraging a prosecution against brewer and ropemaker Richard Gibbons for wilfully giving false evidence to a parlimentary committee investigating electoral fraud in the 1842 election. He was arrested by the Sergeant at Arms and sent to Newgate prison. He was later sent home with a severe reprimand from the Speaker for his "disgraceful conduct". Richard said he had become confused about being asked about both the Povey and Pusey votes and had not deliberately mislead anyone. The town as a whole seems to have believed him. A petition for his release was made by numerous inhabitants stressing his integrity and industry. His nephew Charles Gibbons vote was also contested on suspicion of bribery, but was held to be good in the end. He had voted for Clayton. The result of the Electoral Committee was Clayton's victory was over turned and his seat was given to previous runner up Renn Hampden)

The old May Fair, a partner to the longer lasting October Marlow Fair, had ceased by the Victorian era and the "rustic sports" at Bovingdon Green had lapsed by the end of the 19th century. Another lost tradition was a greasy pole climbling competition in the High Street. 

Spring tonic

If the sight of blossom and flowers was not enough, High Street chemist William Baxter could offer flagging spirits his "health giving saline"  spring tonic. It was aimed at children too, and cost 1/6 a bottle in 1897. 

The changing of the seasons also prompted certain shops to promote their new stock or to suggest you could refresh your wardrobe with the latest Paris or London fashions, if you were lucky enough to be able to afford to do so. James Morgan advertised that Spring 1897 would see every department of his drapers  stocked "replete with the latest novelties". Sounds delightful! 

* The "ladies" were F Langley, F Langley junior (in a bathing costume!) and P Chapman (the last dressed as a lady of fashion with a yellow dress and hat trimmed with an abundance of flowers)

Written by Kathryn Day. 

Related posts:

More about the Povey vote scandal here

Victorian Christmas in Marlow part 1 here and part 2 here

New Year traditions here

Bonfire night in Victorian Marlow here

A listing of other posts about every day life in old Marlow  here

SOURCES

Carlisle, Nicholas, Concise Description of the Endowed Grammar Schools in England and Wales, Volume 1 (Baldwin, Craddock and Joy 1818) Reading Mercury, 10 May 1849, 31 May 1890 From the British Library, access via the BNA. South Bucks Standard 19 April 1895, 16 April 1897, 20 April 1900, 20 April 1902, 20 April 1906, as above Windsor and Eton Express 7 May 1842, as above Bucks Herald 11 April 1896, 08 May 1886,19 Apr 1884.

©Marlow Ancestors

 

Bringing The Harvest Home - Harvest Festival In Marlow

Any one who has ever browsed a Marlow census return will be aware that huge numbers of people in Marlow worked at some point as an agricultural labourer or "ag lab". You will also notice from other records that many people rented land who did not define themselves as farmers primarily. The gathering of the harvest was something that therefore involved a lot of our Marlow ancestors. 

First a quick word about these agricultural labourers. The census forms had limited space to record someone's occupation. Many people had several jobs at once but not all will be recorded. If you find reference to someone describing their work in another context, where they are a witness in a criminal trial perhaps, at an inquest or if their life is described later, your "ag lab" often turns out to have other simultaneous roles. Some had skilled specialities but were lumped together under the general labourer heading on a census.  Others worked in agriculture seasonally or casually but were not necessarily doing so at the time of the census. Whatever they did, their work was absolutely essential to the wellbeing of everyone in the town. It was also often extremely hard and required strength and deftness. There's no such thing as "just" an agricultural labourer. 

The Georgian harvest suppers and harvest home celebrations seem to have had a bit of a raucous reputation. The early Victorians were at pains to mention how much more civilised their occasions were compared to what came before, mainly in the terms of levels of alcohol consumed. These were usually held mid September, sometimes a bit later, to celebrate the harvest successfully coming in. The records of what small scale farmers did to celebrate in Marlow specifically are mostly lacking but one man who was an enthusiastic host of Harvest Home celebrations was Benjamin Atkinson, of the Rookery, Chapel Street. 

Benjamin was a doctor who also owned farm land and buildings at various places in the Marlow area. This included land off Wycombe Road, (aka Town End Farm), Marlow Bottom Farm, and land towards Handy Cross. (You can read more about him here ) 

His Harvest Home celebrations were a significant event in the town and were "joyously anticipated" not just by his farm workers but by a "large circle of gentry" who were also invited. Everyone invited proceeded to the Rookery itself where the gardeners had spent hours preparing for the event. The grass was cut fine to allow for dancing late into the night, lanterns were hung from every tree and two large marquees were erected. In 1855, 40 people sat down to dinner before 150 more arrived at 5.30pm along with a brass band. There was dancing and feasting until Mr and Mrs Atkinson gathered everyone into the largest tent for speeches. On this occasion, Benjamin said he had bought the company together to honour his work people whom he regarded as friends, and he trusted that he had always treated them as such. This was met with cries of "You have! You have!" You suspect these sentiments were sincere on both sides, as Benjamin and Eliza were well known for their benevolence. As a doctor, Benjamin saw many poor patients for free for example. 

Benjamin also visited the workers in the fields as the reaping was coming to an end, having organised the delivery of an alcoholic treat. He gave a speech there too. In the summer of 1856, a large group of his labourers followed up Benjamin's refreshment with a trip to a public house. An unfortunate consequence of this was a family squabble, fuelled by alcohol, that started in the pub and continued at home before the police broke it up. Richard Martin ended up with a broken leg, his wife some broken ribs, and son William with various injuries. Benjamin recieved some criticism for his habit of treating workers in the fields after this. 

As time passed, this harvest celebration gets rarer. By the 1890's most events seem to have been organised by the biggest landowners and estates only. ( Mr Ellames continued to hold Harvest Homes at Wood Barn Farm, Little Marlow at this time for both the estate workers and their wives, providing "old English fare" and free tobacco. As did the Kearleys of States, Medmenham who decorated the great barn with Union Jack's, flowers, corn and evergreens ahead of a colossal supper and dance.) The local papers reflecting on this lack thought it a shame the bonds between land owner and land worker might be weakened as a result. Others thought landowners could no longer afford to host anything on a large scale like this anyway. 

Church services to specifically celebrate the harvest became more popular in the second half of the 19th century in Marlow. You can be sure that whatever church or chapel your ancestor attended here then, that it would have been a magnificent sight come harvest festival time. The level of decoration is sometimes extraordinary, and it's usually the woman of the congregation who took charge of this. 

In 1877, 250 people sat down to a harvest tea in the school room in the Causeway. This was followed by a concert in the evening. All Saints was decorated with wreathes of cornflowers and evergreens, along with sheaves of corn which sounds very pretty. In 1883, a miniature hay rick was on display beneath the pulpit. But in 1891 the ladies of All Saints really out did themselves. They covered each window ledge with moss and garlands of autumn coloured creepers. The pedestal of the font also became a mossy bank, "planted" with primulas and every type of fern that could be found. The pulpit was hidden beneath an abundance of fruit and flowers while the front of the choir stalls displayed small bunches of corn. Fruit and flowers from the Marlow and Bisham harvest festivals often found their way to Marlow Cottage Hospital afterwards. 

The ladies of the Primitive Methodist Chapel in Chapel Street (now Liston Hall) were equally creative. In 1896 they lined the skirtings of the building with garlands of ivy and placed flowers on every available surface from the gasoliers down. 

Similar efforts to decorate Little Marlow church were made, enjoyed by a packed congregation year on year. In 1864 the Reading Mercury complained that the "ugly" high backed pews made it impossible for many to see the beautiful displays to their best advantage. You can't please everyone! 

Of course for every year there was a successful "incoming" of crops, there were others where the harvest was a disaster. Badly timed spells of wet weather could ruin months of incessant labour. In 1873 persistent rain delayed the harvest and left some farmers facing huge losses. The grain sprouted, because of the wet weather, a situation which reduced the yield, quality and storage capability of the crop. A harvest gathering that went well really was a cause of celebration. 

Related Posts:

To find the histories of different farms in Marlow and Little Marlow  see the "Specific Shops, Streets, Etc" option on the menu. 

Every mention of a person can be found under the Person Index. Other general posts related to agriculture in Marlow will be listed under the general history option here

 Index of posts related to everyday life in old Marlow: here

SOURCES: 

Harvest Home. Anon. (J Evans & Sons, 1810)

Harvest Home (Penny Publications 1873)

South Bucks Free Press September 3 1859, copy from the British Library Archive, accessed via the BNA September 2020.  

Reading Mercury 10 September 1864, 13 September 1873, as above

Bucks Herald 6 October 1873, as above 

South Bucks Standard 9 October 1891, 22 September 1893, 11 October 1895 as above

Oxford Gazette 17 October 1885, as above

https://www.bcg.org.au/pre-harvest-sprouting-in-wheat-and-barley/&ved=2ahUKEwjTtK3c17rwAhUXVRUIHWbvDB04ChAWMAN6BAgDEAI&usg=AOvVaw2-x5d-YBOzqdSZRG10Y5KV

And thanks to Archibald Godfrey for his information. 

©Marlow Ancestors.

Proverbial For It's Wickedness

Side of the chapel building. Photo taken October 2020.

POST UPDATED NOVEMBER 2024.

The Primitive Methodists were a group who aspired to follow a pure, close to the original form of Methodism. They arrived in Marlow before 1831, the date given by James Joseph Sheahan in his History and Topography of Buckinghamshire, for the erection of their first place of worship. Many of the early Primitive Methodist services were held outside, and they were not necessarily well received locally. The early preachers had to be brave men at times, undergoing both physical and verbal abuse. 

An example of this is the hair raising experience preacher George Griggs underwent while staying at Marlow in 1838. On his way here, he stopped to lead an open air Sunday afternoon service at Bisham, accompanied by a few friends. They began by singing hymns, their usual way of gaining attention. Unfortunately, they also gained the interest of a few inebriated men who made a raucous audience. The local clergyman came up and ordered Griggs out of the village, on the pretext they were causing a disturbance. A spirited exchange followed, and the clergyman departed, whether in defeat or to gather reinforcements isn't known. Griggs made a speech to anyone left sober enough to listen then retreated to Marlow. The following day he had in his sights a place apparently "proverbial for it's wickedness" - the village of Cookham Dean. Here he gathered a large audience, but again it was dominated by hecklers. Things got heated and poor George was thrown down to the ground twice, and attempts were made to tear off his coat. Two passing men apparently intervened at this point and George's coat was saved. One report even mentions the firing of guns, into the air we hope. Was he deterred? Not at all. The next week he was back in sinful Cookham Dean. Unfortunately so were the hecklers who this time formed a parade, lead by the unnamed daughter of a beer seller. They banged kettles and pans, sang "lewd songs" and generally tried to blot out George's words. One member of this raucous band is nevertheless said to have heard enough to inspire him to fall to his knees and weep for his sins. Or so it was later reported. However when George asked the audience to step forward and give their name and address if they wished to form a local group, no one moved. Not surprising given the reception George had recieved! But as he walked away, he was followed by a few individuals who did want to do just as he asked, now they were out of sight of their disapproving neighbours. The first meeting of this little group was said to have been made in a quarry, and was used later as an example of how unpromising beginnings could sometimes lead to success. Back in Marlow, George had a sleepless night, worried about the folk of Cookham. On waking he was filled with determination that they should have a meeting place at Cookham Dean, and so they did. Hiring a room at first, they got a chapel in 1842. 

 

Humble beginnings

I am not sure of the location of Marlow's 1831 Primitive Methodist Chapel but a new chapel was built near Dean street in 1841. It was located in Marefield Passage, which ran off Cambridge Road - the garages that stand between Creswell Row and Marefield Rd are it's approximate location today.  Later described as poor and small, the chapel was nevertheless big enough to accommodate a gallery extension in 1846 that increased capacity by 70 persons. In 1851, the average attendance was given as 200 persons for evening services, and 100 each at the morning and afternoon ones. There were then an average of 50 children attending the morning and afternoon Sunday Schools. 

Preacher James Hatch, born in Cookham Dean was a Primitive Methodist convert as a young man. He later moved to Marlow, working in his day job as a fisherman.  While he still attended the Cookham Dean Chapel at first, he later became one of the primary movers to build his fellow worshippers a more spacious place of worship in Marlow. So the building we now know as Liston Hall came into being. 

Handsome and commodious

It was not an easy undergoing for a relatively small congregation. It cost £1,920 pounds including the large Sunday school room, the purchase of land* (and the purchase of a neighbouring cottage according to some). Of this huge sum, only £700 had been raised before building began. It was completed and ready for use in 1875. James Hatch was then the treasurer and worked with "courage and self denying perseverance" to reduce the debt. He was able to make some dent in the amount, and prevented the high annual running costs from adding to what was owed. Known to carry his "collecting book" wherever he travelled, he is said never have lost the opportunity to solicit donations. But sadly he died suddenly aged 59 in 1882, by which time the building account was still not settled. (See notes below) A mention of a concerted drive to free the chapel of the hampering effect of lingering debt as late as 1907 suggests their funds were never very healthy. Unfortunately their membership had also declined at this point. 

Time capsules set in place

But back to the optimistic opening of the new chapel. Some of the funds for the Sunday school room in particular had been raised by the children attending it. In honour of their contribution, the boy and girl who raised the most were invited to take part in the ceremony to lay the foundation stones of the new schoolroom in 1874. Walter Lunnon and Lucy Smith were the lucky two youngsters allowed to lay bricks. Under the very first brick of this part, laid by Mr Simpson Carson, was a bottle come time capsule containing a newspaper and statistics, carefully placed in a cavity beneath by Mrs James Hatch. (A foundation stone bearing the name of J Hatch and family was also put in place.)

The laying of foundation stones for the main chapel part took place separately and attracted an audience of 250. The very first stone was laid by donor Mrs Davis and there is mention of a bottle time capsule placed under one of the corner stones on this occasion too. It contained newspapers and coins. Altogether 13 engraved cornerstones were placed around the building in honour of those who helped bring it about, although not all are easily visible now.

The Chapel in everyday life

The chapel may not have had an organ but it did have an harmonium and a small but enthusiastic choir so they must have livened up Chapel Street for passers by. They were blessed with a magic lantern bought especially for the pleasure of the Sunday School children and used on all kinds of treat days for them. They could also count on an annual school trip, with the beautiful Burnham Beeches a popular choice.  The children's library maintained by the Sunday School must have been invaluable to the poorer children in particular. In 1884 it had 133 volumes, paid for by voluntary contributions by the 10 teachers as well as the young pupils themselves. Those youngsters who attended Sunday School on a regular basis could also earn themselves a prize. 

Throughout the year the Chapel hosted various public teas, Band of Hope meetings, occasional moral lectures, and watch night celebrations on New Years Eve. The harvest festival was an especially beautiful time to visit, with every corner of the Chapel decorated. Fund raising bazaars were also a regular feature, usually offering produce, fancy goods made by the ladies of the congregation and in 1885 an intriguing sounding "curiosity show" of old artwork organised by Mrs Young. 

The Chapel was on the Maidenhead circuit of preachers and sometimes received visits from those based further away. Of course some Marlow men also went out to preach in the surrounding areas. Special mention must go to William Evans, affectionately known as Father Evans. He was born in Marlow, near the Swan Inn and later lived in Victoria Road. In 1888 he received a public tea and presentation in his honour thanks to his 50 years of service to Primitive Methodism. He continued to preach in the neighbourhood after this, walking 10 miles or more on a Sunday because he refused to travel by train on the Sabbath. Eventually he was forced to retire, not least because he became deaf, but he still attended services at the Marlow Chapel even so. He died age 84 in 1899, both of his wives having predeceased him. 

The Primitive Methodists joined the Wesleyan Methodists of Spittal Street in 1932, and the Chapel was put up for sale. It was bought for the town by Nesta Liston and then used for various purposes including a library.  It now hosts the Marlow Community Association. 

Mrs J Jones made a donation towards building the chapel hence this stone

Original front of building partially obscured by a later extension. There was a door below this window, with a small patch of grass and a gravel path in front. The date of 1874 indicates when the building work began - the foundation stones were laid in October of that year. It was ready for full use in 1875. 

Stone for the Rev'ds C Smith and C Spooner (of Windsor), ministers

 J Watson [Superintendent of  the Sunday School]

Mr R Wellicome [Richard] His design was used for the building according to contemporary reports. Although one also credits builder/architect Charles Carter with the design and builder Corby with the construction. Richard certainly designed the Wesleyan Methodist chapel in Spittal Street. 

? J S Carson [Capt. J Simpson Carson, who laid the first stone of the school room and received a silver trowel as a keepsake]

M.S Carson Esq [Marriott Simpson Carson, who laid the second stone of the Sunday school room, and received a bound copy of a history of Primitive Methodism as a memento. His wife also laid a stone but received no prize! ]

Mr H Roberts. Other stones commemorate Charles Carter, and supporters W Sellman and family, T Wheeler, W Neville, Miss J Jones and Miss Marks. 

* The land the chapel was built on included the former site of the boys day school run by Methodist George Cole. As Sergeant Cole he was formerly  employed the junior branch of the Royal Military Academy at Remnantz. He is credited with bringing the first organised Wesleyan Methodist meetings to the town, and driving the erection of their 1810 chapel.  See the grave of George in a post here

Researched and written by Kathryn Day with updates by Charlotte Day. Photos by Kathryn. 

NOTES

James Hatch was buried at the Cookham Dean Primitive Methodist Chapel, in a spot he had chosen years before when he was one of the people responsible for beautifying and properly enclosing the burial ground. The funeral was said to have been attended by many Marlow tradesman. There was no burial ground at the Marlow premises. Cookham chapel was rebuilt 1858. 

2. Within the larger Great Marlow  area, there was also a small Primitive Methodist Chapel at Lane End, erected 1861. 

Related posts: 

The Wesleyans at Marlow: 

here

Index of posts related to places of worship: here

Index of posts related to specific streets, business or buildings  see here

To find all mentions of an individual here, use the A-Z person index in the top drop down menu. 

SOURCES

The History of the Primitive Methodism Connection.  Petty, John. (R Davies, 1864)

Primitive Methodist Magazine, 1847 and 1884. (Thomas Holliday, 1847,1884) 

Kelly's Post Office Directory 1853, 1869, 1939, Kelly's Directories Ltd. 

History and Topography of Buckinghamshire. Sheahan, James Joseph. (Longman, Green, Longman & Roberts, 1862)

1861 Census, transcribed from microfilm by Charlotte Day 

Maidenhead Advertiser, 7 November 1888 and 20 September 1889, from British Library Archive, and accessed via the BNA August 2020. 

Reading Observer, 17 October 1874, as above. 

South Bucks Standard 13 April 1894, 20 September 1907, as above. 

Buckinghamshire Returns of the census of religious worship 1851, Bucks Record Office. 

Slough, Windsor and Eton Observer October 17 1885 -Slough Library. 

©Marlow Ancestor